Boys Explorer Ref. 5500

The Rolex Explorer, bearing the name "Explorer." This professional model, born from feedback gathered from Himalayan expeditions across various countries, achieved significant commercial success immediately after its 1953 release.

In response to this success, Rolex at the time created marketing models based on the Explorer, specifically for certain countries and regions. These models retained the iconic 3, 6, and 9 hour markers on the dial, but by repurposing components from the Air-King, they featured a slightly smaller 34mm case diameter compared to the original Explorer.

Among these special models, we are introducing the Ref. 5500 Boys Explorer, which was manufactured for the UK market. This reference is gaining popularity again, but due to its originally irregular specifications and limited distribution to specific regions, there are many malicious fakes.

Now, four Ref. 5500 models have arrived simultaneously, including a full set with original guarantee, one with a matte dial, and three with mirror dials.

What's interesting about vintage watches is that specifications once undoubtedly deemed fake can, with further research, turn out to be authentic. These dials, not to mention their originality, are in remarkably good condition.

First, the matte dial. Until recently, it was commonly believed that matte dials did not exist for the Boys Explorer. However, in recent years, the discovery of examples with guarantees and detailed analysis of their luminous material, confirming it as original Rolex from that period, has led to their recognition.

In this sense, the matte dial Boys Explorer can be said to be a discovery that has only recently emerged among vintage Rolex watches. It is now known that Boys Explorers were produced for about 10 years, until around 1968 or 1969, and matte dials were produced only during the last roughly one and a half years of that period.

In particular, the matte dial we are introducing this time is an extremely rare example with its original guarantee and outer box. While the originality can certainly be determined through detailed analysis of the luminous material, having a guarantee undoubtedly makes wearing the watch a more pleasant experience.

The underline on the dial indicates that tritium was used for the luminous material. Since the dials from the radium era were used as is, only the underline and the "T < 25" inscription were added later, resulting in a difference in paint color.

Two of the mirror dials are special examples with an underline at the 6 o'clock position, seen only immediately after the transition from radium to tritium luminous paint. This detail, observed only from 1963 to 1965, is extremely rare, and many collectors seek it out, not just for the Boys Explorer.

One of these, in particular, is a special full set and one-owner piece that a Hong Kong dealer sourced for AFTER. It comes with everything: guarantee, service papers, even the watchmaker's business card, repair notes, and photos of the original owner.

Looking ahead, if you're seeking the ultimate Boys Explorer, you likely won't find a better example than this one.

Its origin as a marketing model and the irregular specifications that stem from it—this Ref. 5500 Boys Explorer is truly packed with the charm of vintage Rolex.

Especially its 34mm size, which might seem small by modern standards but is actually very comfortable to wear, resonates with many of the watches we've featured at AFTER.

It's not often that four such rare models, including full sets, are available in such satisfying condition. This lineup, offering only carefully selected items as part of a particular style, is truly unique to AFTER. Please make a reservation and come visit us.