— Please briefly tell us about the types of watches you handle and their appeal.
We primarily handle vintage Cartier and Rolex watches. Vintage watches are often smaller in size compared to their modern counterparts, which gives them a unique, condensed aesthetic.
Classic models like the Rolex Submariner and Cartier Tank have been continuously produced for decades, with subtle design changes over time.
While you can certainly buy these classic models new, by focusing on vintage, I hope to offer customers the opportunity to experience the original designs from when these iconic models were first created.
— Please tell us about the first watch you bought yourself.
It was a Rolex Submariner, Ref. 16610, which I bought when I was 25. Everyone at my workplace at the time wore Rolexes, so on a whim, I stopped by a watch shop before work and bought a current model, second-hand.
— So your first watch wasn't specifically vintage.
That's right. At that time, I wasn't thinking about vintage at all. I ended up wearing that Submariner for nearly 10 years.
After that, I sold my first watch and bought a Rolex GMT-Master. Rolex models with a 4-digit reference number are generally considered vintage, and the one I bought was Ref. 1675.
While I now have knowledge about the subtle variations, back then, there was no one around to teach me. Then, by chance, I saw an old man on the train wearing the same model, and it looked incredibly cool. I thought, "I have to buy that!" (laughs)
Also, I'm a big fan of Ralph Lauren, and since he collects vintage Rolex, Cartier, Panerai, etc., I always wanted something similar myself.
— But that GMT-Master had a replacement dial, didn't it?
I believe it did now. At the time, I didn't know that even for the same dial, there were original and replacement versions.
However, back then, I was simply drawn to its atmosphere. I found the red and blue bezel attractive, the nicely worn Jubilee bracelet appealing, and the aged luminous material cool, all conveying a sense of history.
From then on, I studied intensely, not only gathering information online and from magazines but also visiting proper shops to actually hold and examine watches. I think physically visiting shops was a significant step in becoming knowledgeable about vintage watches.
Since buying the GMT-Master, I've bought and sold countless watches—so many that I can't even remember how many. Through that experience, I've also become knowledgeable about the originality of parts and period correctness.
— Vintage watches have old movements. How will AFTER handle that aspect?
For the maintenance of the watches we handle at the shop, I plan to entrust it to a craftsman who has been taking care of my watches since I first started buying vintage timepieces.
When I bought my second watch, the Ref. 1675, there was an old shop on my commute that I always saw, but I wasn't sure if it was even open. I thought, "Since it's an old shop, they might have vintage watches," so I bravely went in, and that craftsman appeared.
When I told him I wanted to learn more about watches, he brought out all sorts of watches from the back. He had been repairing watches since he was 15, and his repair skills and speed are definitely reliable. He can usually complete an overhaul in three days! (laughs)
He taught me so much, and I believe that it's thanks to him that I've been able to get my hands on so many different watches.
— So you felt confident entrusting the maintenance to that craftsman.
Generally, when purchasing a vintage watch, you need to pay attention not only to the originality of the parts and period correctness but also to the condition of the movement.
But in my case, because I had the assurance that this craftsman would reliably perform the maintenance, I was able to experience buying many watches, including some that I wouldn't normally touch due to their condition.
That experience, combined with the confidence that I can responsibly handle maintenance, has led to me handling watches at the shop.
— Please tell us the most important points when buying a vintage watch.
First, the originality of the parts and period correctness—it's absolutely crucial to be able to properly identify these.
At AFTER, we intend to only handle pieces that are particularly period correct. Of course, it's possible to explain and sell items where the age of the parts doesn't perfectly align, and many shops do this.
However, based on my own experience, I believe that customers who purchase such items eventually become dissatisfied later on.
Also, the ability to reliably maintain old movements is important. In this regard, having a trustworthy craftsman, as I mentioned earlier, will be a strength for our shop.
— What kind of lineup can we expect from the watches handled at AFTER?
At AFTER, I hope to offer watches that are highly compatible with fashion, ones that don't overpower an outfit but rather integrate seamlessly.
In that sense, we will only stock carefully selected items that we can confidently recommend as a shop, so in terms of quantity, we might have significantly fewer items than other stores (laughs).
However, precisely because of this, we ensure that only items selected with meticulous attention to detail, such as size, are available. I believe that customers who purchase from us will definitely be satisfied with this.
